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November 18, 2017
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  • Stu

    If you have an 800 and train using a quarq or srm or similar crank based powermeter. Stick with the 800. The 810 has issues with dropping out and gives incorrect power average power readings.

  • bigwagon

    Live track seems a lot more complicated than the Find my Iphone app that does basically the same thing, and if you need to integrate the Garmin with a smart phone anyway, what is the point?

  • The other big problem with the
    810 is that it does not currently allow Open Street Maps to work. The Garmin maps for Australia are extremely
    poor (roads in the Adelaide Hills that have existed for over 20 years do not
    show up).

    You also have to pay extra for
    updates and the maps don’t transfer from unit to unit.

    • There is a way! Pirates know how ;)

    • It worked fine, without any piracy. I’ve got http://garmin.openstreetmap.nl/ maps installed on my 810 as routable bicycle maps. I used garmin map manager (free on mac) to install it across. Takes. Ages.

      The issue I have with the 810, is where it autopauses, after a 10 minute or so break and it stops

  • It seems the 510 is a bigger upgrade over the 500 (touch screen, larger, GLONASS) than the 810 is over the 800. I’m pretty happy with the 800 but I’m not going to upgrade just for the bluetooth/livetrack features. I’ve never found the 800 to be too slow to get a satellite lock. But whoever said the battery lasted 15 hours was dreaming.

  • Personally I use “life360” app on my phone to enable life tracking. Sure, you don’t get the telemetry data but at least if I am late (and possibly lying in a ditch) getting back my family can find me instantly. Since it tracks the phone, not the Garmin, it can be used on or off the bike such as at a music festival or something to help locate one another.

  • Personally I use “life360” app on my phone to enable life tracking. Sure, you don’t get the telemetry data but at least if I am late (and possibly lying in a ditch) getting back my family can find me instantly. Since it tracks the phone, not the Garmin, it can be used on or off the bike such as at a music festival or something to help locate one another.

  • mars

    Thanks Wade, this is really useful. I have been contemplating investing but was waiting for some clarity rather than just opinion.

    At present I don’t own a HR or mapping device and had been deciding bw the 510 and 810 bit after reading the reviews I’ll be quite comfortable investing in the 810.

  • Like the 510, the 810 has a serious bug when recording power data. It’s all over the Garmin forums. My rating is 0.0 until this is fixed. I’ve got the 510, it sits on the shelf.

  • Anonymous

    My 800 has been fantastic but the HRM straps are utter shite. I’m on my 3rd one now and it’s started showing the same issues as the previous 2 – they steadily start showing more nonsense data. Pop a new strap on and it’s all perfect again….. for a while. Garmin denies any problem with their straps and is begrudgingly responsive with what amounts to ineffective advice. I got much better service from the people I bought it from, they just replace the strap and informed me that they get a lot of cases like mine…

  • Anonymous

    My 800 has been fantastic but the HRM straps are utter shite. I’m on my 3rd one now and it’s started showing the same issues as the previous 2 – they steadily start showing more nonsense data. Pop a new strap on and it’s all perfect again….. for a while. Garmin denies any problem with their straps and is begrudgingly responsive with what amounts to ineffective advice. I got much better service from the people I bought it from, they just replace the strap and informed me that they get a lot of cases like mine…

  • Uploading activities directly to Strava.

    I learnt a trick a couple of days ago.

    What you need, a 510 or 810, and Garmin Connect App.

    The next thing, ensure all of your activities, that you wish to see on strava, are not privacy restricted on garmin connect (the little padlock on each activity has to be unlocked, and your account must not be hidden, change in settings)

    What you then do, is go to http://www.garminsync.com and you’ll see on the front page, a choice of tabs, 1. to automatically transfer new activities to strava, and 2. to automatically transfer old activities to strava.

    Then what you need to do, is go to garmin connect, select an activity, and you’ll see in the address bar something like http://www.garmin.com/8888888888 copy the number, and place it into the activity id box on the garminsync site, and then click check id, if you have done it right, it’ll come up with a tick, and some info on you, then click the button below ‘connect to strava’, it’ll ask you for your username and password as a once off, and then it’s setup to automatically transfer new activities that appear in garmin connect.

    Then click on the ‘automatically transfer old activities’ tab, place in that activity id, set a date range (i.e the date of your first garmin file, and today) and then it’ll go through the same process as above, but load a page that if you refresh you’ll see now many files have been uploaded. It took me around 40 mins to upload 192 files! Obviously if you have these already uploaded to strava, don’t redo it, as it’ll duplicate them.

  • G32ECS

    Live Track is such BS. These apps have existed for a while on Google Play/App Store. Same concept: real time tracking.

    I don’t really need the GPS to acquire signals very fast neither. I can wait or just turn it on while I’m getting ready.

    I have the 500 and recently got an 800 ($305 Refurb on EBAY w/ 1 year warranty, no accessories) because I’d like to have the mapping capabilities. There are places that my cellular provider do not have coverage so the mapping capabilities should be very handy to me.

    • For what it’s worth, faster signal acquisition (or, alternatively, the ability to acquire a signal while on the move) would be a major improvement for me.

      My bike is stored in a garage. When starting a ride, I have to wait for about 15 seconds before moving off, just so the Garmin’s tracking will work. If I don’t wait, it essentially never locks on.

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