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December 15, 2017
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  • zosim

    Wanty-Gobert

  • thechesh

    Great list Dave (especially that fuchsia – takes me back to big Jan and his T-mobile days! ;).

    Must admit the thought of using a vacuum seal bike rack did freak me out a bit (despite SeaSucker testing them at 140mph!) but as someone that travels with a bike frequently the even smaller Talon (for one bike) is perfect for carrying in your luggage and using with rental cars.

    • BenW

      Must admit the 10-year-old in me is sniggering at the purple helmet.

      • thechesh

        oh god dammit Ben, now you’ve got me sniggering (and unable to explain to my wife exactly why :)

        • David Everett

          Beavis and Butthead eat your heart out…..and it’s fuchsia, not purple ;)

          • Wily_Quixote

            Either way you know that there is no possible way that you ever can wear it again.

            • David Everett

              Ohh, I do! ;)

          • Haloglow

            The best colour in the world!

    • David Everett

      The racks are a perfect solution for traveling, I wish they were about many moons ago. I remember heading to Majorca on an early season training camp with two team mates, a months worth of kit, three bikes, bike bags and three riders squashed in a Ford Fiesta. That was a day where the tetris skills came in.

    • Mainly I don’t trust myself to install a suction cup correctly. The ones in my shower are always falling down. There’s no way I’d trust a beloved bicycle to anything that wasn’t bolted down, especially if I’d installed it myself.

      • James Huang

        These aren’t suction cups; they’re vacuum cups, and there’s a big difference.

        • There’s no difference, which is why of those things has a wikipedia article whilst the other is a trade name.

          • James Huang

            A vacuum cup is hardly a trade name.

            By definition, vacuum cups are a type of suction cup, but whereas most associate the latter term with basic press-on soft plastic bathroom accessories, vacuum cups allow you to create a much higher pressure differential — not quite an absolute vacuum measured in single-digit mtorr, of course, but far greater than what would get otherwise.

            Having used SeaSucker racks myself in the past, I would have no reservations about doing so again in the future. In fact, these hold on so tightly that, if attached to a glass roof, you need to make sure that panel can handle the pull load when the vehicle is traveling at highway speeds.

            • > “These aren’t suction cups; they’re vacuum cups, and there’s a big difference”
              > “vacuum cups are a type of suction cup”

              Ok.

              • James Huang

                If you want to be pedantic, be my guest, but as I’ve already explained in my previous comment, I was referring to the commonly accepted descriptions of those two terms, not the precise technical ones.

                And if you distrust the reviews that we provide here, I’m sorry that we haven’t earned your trust.

  • Andy B

    The 260 stem was the most frustrating stem ive ever owned, damaged a few sets of bars and bolts corroded with little use
    Id hope they have changed

    • James Huang

      Ritchey still offers the C260 design for riders willing to deal with the hassle of installation. As Dave mentioned, the C220 design was introduced as a sort of in-between option, blending the convenience of a standard 180° clamp but with a bit more wrap to reduce stress on the bars.

      • Schmuck123

        Agree, the C260 stems are pain when you travel, but installing one on a new bike is as easy as any other stem as long as you pay attention to torque specification

  • Schmuck123

    I wholeheartedly agree with the eTap comment. Setting it up is so easy, anyone can do it. Shifting is so intuitive to the point I wonder how come nobody ever thought about it before. Like David said, when I jump from an eTap equipped bike to others, I keep trying to shift the eTap.

  • AC

    How would you compare the Orro and Roadmachine Dave? Do you think either would work as a true one bike stable for someone who doesn’t race? Does the Orro feel zippy enough for fast group rides and big days in the mountains, maybe with a few upgrades? I feel like the Roadmachine is the right kind of bike for me but I love the robustness of a mid level alloy frame for the daily commute.

    • David Everett

      The price points are vastly different. The Roadmachine I used for a recent Swiss trip throughout September and it’s undoubtedly a nice bike that has a lot going for it, and a lot lighter than the Orro for climbing. The Orro comes in at about 9kg I think but I do know they do a carbon version now. I practically do all my riding on the Orro, it’s not sluggish at all and has taken a hell of a beating off road, it’s just a fun bike to blast about on. As an all day climbing bike I would recommend the BMC, obviously it’s lighter and the carbon build is more forgiving. Thought I didn’t always like the way it handed on the descents, the stack height didn’t feel whippy enough for me and I’ve not had this problem on the Orro oddly. The BMC will be a better all day road bike for comfort, but the Orro is a bundle of fun.

      • AC

        Thanks Dave, that’s really useful insight. I’m a bit like you in that I might not be fully ready to embrace discs but will definitely look into the Orro. And thanks for the top 10 list, great mix of quality, unique and unpretentious products.

        • James Huang

          Quality, unique, unpretentious — dare I say those words could also easily apply to Dave, too :)

  • pervertt

    Plus one for Fabric saddles. I’ve got 2 of these things, after learning the hard way that there is no great correlation between price and comfort when it comes to saddles.

  • Crash Bandicoot

    Some love has to be given to the 5800 crankset they’re like 70 bucks extremely light shift just as well as my DA9000 rings. I actually sold my DA cranks and bought 53/39 105s and had a pile of cash left over and cannot tell the difference.

    • David Everett

      After using the 105 groupset it boggles my mind as to why the ‘average’ consumer would go spend any more on Ultegra or Dura-Ace. The amount of aggro I’ve put the kit through and the way it keeps working amazes me. In my opinion the quality you get now far surpasses anything that the pros were on 10 years ago. I’ve had more fun on the Orro and it’s cheap kit than most of the super high end test bikes I’ve had the chance to ride this year. Price doesn’t relate to fun.

      • Cameron Harris

        Between reviews like this, and Simon’s review of R8000 on GCN, I’m glad I didn’t buy DA for my bike build.

  • StendhalCA

    I’m a big cbear fan. Their bracket compatibility chart is outstanding. They were a pleasure to deal with in ordering a bracket from my overseas location. Their prices are below the competition. And a bracket strong enough for the Gorilla is strong enough for anyone.

    • David Everett

      They’ve always been great with me when I’ve dealt with them. And yeah that chart works a treat, anyone can work out what they need from it.

      • Hi David, here is a c-bear fanboy as well. The advantages that I could experience over a Dura Ace 9000 BB86 bottom bracket are:

        – C-Bear uses precision CNC-manufactured aluminium cups, increasing accuracy and decreasing flex or movement;
        – C-Bear design puts the bearing almost against the crank arms, for optimal stiffness and power transfer;
        – C-Bear eliminates the use of spacers, adapters or reducers, so no glue or loctite is needed;

        C-Bear hits a very very interesting price-point and it simply works without any issues.

        • hornk

          There is no manufacturer left on this earth not using “precision cnc manufactured” parts. That phrase is meaningless.

          • Well the *plastic* Dura Ace cups came loose from my frame-set. The tolerances of the *aluminum* C-Bear cups are resulting in a flawless installation and use.

            • hornk

              1) Even plastic is made on a CNC machine, which is pretty high precision.

              2) what part are you referring to as the cup? In my world the cup is the part that threads into the shell, and holds the bearing. No one makes those out of plastic that I know of.

              The two plastic parts I’m aware of are the endcap that applies pre-load to the bearings, and the tube that runs between the two bearings carrying that pre-load/sealing dirt out.

              But then maybe there’s some new bottom bracket I haven’t seen.

              • 1. Agree, but the material
                2. Press-fit bottom brackets don’t have threads.

                Cups are the black aluminium parts that contains the text PF42-30 R. Aluminum has different characteristics than plastic, when my mechanical engineering background doesn’t fail me. :) And the stock Shimano press fit bottom brackets have plastic cups.

                Please read the James Huang BikeRadar article “I’ve had it with press-fit bottom brackets”. Gives a lot of context on the advantages of the C-Bear Bottom Brackets –> http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article/angryasian-ive-had-it-with-press-fit-bottom-brackets-38220/

  • david__g

    this list is OK but I’d rather it was a 30 minute video because I love Dave in video form the most.

    • David Everett

      I’ll keep that in mind for next year’s Top 10. Cheers.

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