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  • Ragtag

    I thought the BORAs will make it considering your review :)

  • David Williams

    Are the blue 240 decals a custom job?

    I’m currently looking at spec’ing up some new wheels, but feel the normal red decals will not suit my bike :)

    • Yeah, just google “custom dt 240 decal” and you’ll find at least one company that offers a range of alternatives. From memory, I had to trim the length of one to suit my hubs, might have been the front hub. I know at least one wheel builder that also offers custom decals for a variety of hubs, including 240s, so it won’t be hard to address your issue with DT’s stock red decals.

  • Rom Phillips

    I thought I was the only one that patched tubes.

    • Stewie Griffin

      Nah, I do it all the time. Especially MTB inners, but considering going tubeless on MTB

    • TypeVertigo

      Count me in. I patch tubes, but I typically stop at three or four repairs before I discard the tube for a new one.

      In the meantime, there are lots of uses for “discarded” inner tubes. I use them to retain garbage bags in my bins so that they stay in place and don’t sag with weight.

    • James Huang

      Count me in, too. It’s a standard wintertime activity for me, although less so with the increasing prevalence of tubeless.

    • Patrick Murphy

      Personally never patch them either but I do carry a couple of park tool patches on me incase the worst should happen.

      • MadBlack

        Which will last to get you home at best. You have to use vulcanizer for a permanent tube repair, hence the importance of the waiting period for the glue to dry. Park tool patches are nothing but a sticker.

        • Patrick Murphy

          Which is all I want it to do, I’d bin it then :)

    • Shane Stokes

      Interesting story: many years ago I did a summer cycling coaching and mechanics course. One of the guys on the course had never patched his tubes; when he punctured, he’d chuck it away and put in a brand new one. He actually had no idea how to fix one, was the only guy in the course in that position. He’s now an aircraft engineer..

  • Ant

    Gravel plus bikes are a hoot. The Bombtrack Hook EXT is more affordable (and quite a bit heavier) than the 3T. Super versatile, loads of fun to ride, and really useful as a B bike / commuter when I put the 700C wheels on with their ‘skinny’ 40mm tyres.

  • George Darroch

    How well do the Rema patches pull from the foil? I’ve been having bad luck with repair kits recently, with patches that lose their shape because of the plastic covering. It’s led me to be more wasteful of tubes than I really should.

    • James Huang

      Very well, actually! Remas have been among the best I’ve used, in fact, which is why they’re the only patches I buy these days.

      The tricker aspect is removing the plastic after patching the tube (which is true for all glue-type patches). Instead of peeling from one edge to another, though, I fold the patched area in half so that that plastic splits in the middle, and then peel each half off from the center outward.

    • MadBlack

      Hands down the best patches in the world. I grew up in Germany where TipTop is synonymous with tube patches and it’s diffiult to find any other brand. I have benn using these for more than 25 years apart from the short period I migrated to OZ and couldn’t find them easily about 15 years ago. To say I was frustrated with the other options available would be an undrstatement. So I had a friend buy a mega-pack in Germany and post it to me. I’m still using them to this day…

      • James Huang

        Ha ha, I’ve got a 50-pack in my garage at this very moment!

      • Søren Nejmann

        Haha i’m from Denmark. These has been around since my dad was young. These are the best!

  • Il_falcone

    I second everything you wrote about the 240s hubs. If they offered them in an array of popular anodized colours we would most probably have next to no demand for any other hubs.
    With regards to service life and a lack of need for regular maintenance they are almost too good.
    Don’t forget to lube the freewheel mechansism though. Preferably before you notice the freewheeling sound becoming louder. As you say it’s a job that takes no more than 5 minutes and requires neither tools nor any skills.

  • Interesting take on both @CTech_editor:disqus and @disqus_ZiZ7FkAYnw:disqus “what I loved in 2017″… ie both include stuff that has been around for yonks… and been using for yonks…

    As to DT 240s… I’ve never used them, but can’t get my head around the thought of digging into the free hub splines… but maybe I’ve just got too much power …

    Must give those patches a go… it annoys me that I don’t fix my tubes enough. What I’d like though, is the ability to buy the volcanising rubber / glue separate from the patches (I’ve seen the patches separately, but not the other way around). I honestly don’t get that many punches, that when I do go to fix the next one the glue has dried out. Am I just blind?

    • It’s a turn off for sure, not just for DT hubs. DT does make a steel version of its Shimano free hub body, which is one solution. Another is to use Campagnolo.

      • Re Campag… Having never used, is that because the cassettes are different, and now at least compatible with 11 speed shimano / sram?

        Honestly, my choice of hub on my last wheel build was driven completely by, I cannot have anything with aluminium body given the problems I’ve had on a previous build (ie it has dug in that far before on another wheel build).

        • Yeah, there are fewer and deeper splines. I’ve heard that Shimano’s freehub design with the low splines was never meant to be made from alloy, so that’s why their hubs and wheelsets only come with steel or titanium freehub bodies. That hasn’t stopped other manufacturers from doing it, which has had the effect of putting the problem back on Shimano.

          • Il_falcone

            But is it a real problem? I found that if you refrain from filing those burs down which form when the cog “cuts” into the freehub body that process comes to an end. For those that often change cassettes removing those (few) individual cogs from the freehub body might be a bit uncomfortable but it’s not a real issue, is it? And if you often swap cassettes I recommend buying additoonal freehub bodies for your 240s hubs. So you just pull of the cassette freehub body included from the hub axle wearing a glove or protecting your hands with a rag, reinstall the one toothed disc and spring that might come off during that process and push on the other cassette on its freehub body. You’re ready to go within less than two minutes.

            • I think it is a real world problem, and your solution an expensive fix… Is it more expensive than everyone using titanium? No idea.

              I obviously can’t talk if some hubs / brands are made with better grades of aluminium than others. But I once had two cassette ring notch about 2-3mm into the spline. Even if I persisted with your approach, at some point the cassette needs to come off, and it was a major pain in the ar.se to get those rings off. Perhaps 5mins of bashing.

              At the end of the day though, even with two free hubs, you’ve paid extra and still not got around the problem.

              Honestly, it wasn’t after many rides it happened really badly to me. Bad batch / set of hubs? No idea. Either way, for wheels since I avoid aluminium if I can.

              • Il_falcone

                Well, I would even recommend using different freehub bodies for 240s hubs if the alleged problem with sprockets cutting into the splines wouldn’t exist. Just because it works so much faster and cleaner. You can do it right before you start your next ride already wearing your kit having the idea where to go and understanding almost too lately that you would do better with a bigger cassette. Putting on some gloves will make sure you don’t even have to clean your hands afterwards.

                The next time you’ll have to deal with hard to remove sprockets I recommend loosening the cassette lock-ring only by one revolution. Then use one chain whip on the largest sprocket to keep the freehub from rotating while using a second chain whip to turn back (counter-clockwise) those individual sprockets who are somewhat stuck. Takes seconds to do that and won’t hurt in the ass ;-))).

            • I love swapping bodies between DT hubs to avoid the hassle of swapping the cassette but few would be prepared to spend extra on an additional freehub body. I’m not sure the damage to the splines can be stopped by leaving the burrs; if nothing else, they make it more difficult to install a cassette.

              • Il_falcone

                I’m dealing with 240s hubs pretty often on a regular basis as we nearly sell nothing else. And whereas I very rarely have to replace cassettes on my own bikes because I monitor chain wear and replace chains before they start wearing the sprockets we often have to replace cassettes on customers’ bikes who don’t pay that much attention. I can honestly say that replacing the cassette on a DT freehub has never been a problem. Part of the reasoning for this might be that at least half of the sprockets on current Shimano cassettes are integrated into blocks of two or three which don’t cut into the aluminum at all. And the smaller individual sprockets either don’t see that much torque (because of their size) or DT’s alloy is strong enough to cope with that. That’s also true for racers who regularly sprint with max. powers (way) beyond 1200 watts which typically happens on one of those smaller individual sprockets.
                I agree that on some other hubs this is a bigger problem. Tune is one example I’m aware of. They count the weight of their components in x.y grams and remove as much of the material on their freehub bodies as possible. Well they actually remove more than reasonable also not even providing enough guidance for the sprockets to center properly.
                While we say that the sprocket “cuts” or “bites” into the aluminum what actually really happens is that it pushes the material away. The direction in which it can easily move is radially outwards. That happens until that material touches the sprocket. Then the process stops. Remove that pushed up material and the process starts again. I’ve seen customers’ freehubs who did exactly that until the sprockets had made their way through those splines and the freehub body was toast.

                • hamncheeze

                  King R45 freehub bodies also get notched from the cassette as well. I think any aluminum alloy freehub is going to have this problem. Shimano uses a Ti freehub on the Dura-Ace 9000 hubs and it does not get notches cut into it. There are some manufacturers who have come up with steel “insert” solutions for alloy freehubs to reduce or eliminate the notching. American Classic, Edco and I believe Onyx all use some form of steel insert. Of course adding any interface into the freehub body is also upping the odds of creaking as an outcome….

  • Detlef Jumpertz

    The Campari Rosso colour is stunning, it has quite a degree of colour nuance about it depending on the light conditions. The ride quality, having now ridden 1000kms is phenomenal. Enjoy https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/bb7e96ec7014344c282b4f0679488b8d55c6a76a88e380f507285b0024b695ab.jpg

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